Vanity sizing

Vanity sizing, or size inflation, is the phenomenon of ready-to-wear clothing of the same nominal size becoming bigger in physical size over time.^[1][2][3] This has been documented primarily in the United States and the United Kingdom.^[4] The use of US standard clothing sizes by manufacturers as the official guidelines for clothing sizes was abandoned in 1983.^[5][6] In the United States, although clothing size standards exist (i.e., ASTM), most companies do not use them any longer.^[2]

Size inconsistency has existed since at least 1937. In Sears' 1937 catalog, a size 14 dress had a bust size of 32 inches (81 cm). In 1967, the same bust size was a size 8. In 2011, it was a size 0.^[7] Some argue that vanity sizing is designed to satisfy wearers' wishes to appear thin and feel better about themselves.^[2][3] This works by adhering to the theory of compensatory self-enhancement, as vanity sizing promotes a more positive self-image of one upon seeing a smaller label.^[5]

In the 2000s, American designer Nicole Miller introduced size 0 because of its strong California presence and to satisfy the request of many Asian American customers in that state. Her brand introduced subzero sizes for naturally petite women.^[2] However, the increasing size of clothing with the same nominal size caused Nicole Miller to introduce size 0, 00, or subzero sizes.^[2]

The UK's Chief Medical Officer has suggested that vanity sizing has contributed to the normalisation of obesity in society.^[8]

In 2003, a study that measured over 1,000 pairs of women's pants found that pants from more expensive brands tended to be smaller than those from cheaper brands with the same nominal size.^[9]